Cau Giay, FOOD ~ Hanoi

[Hanoi] Chao Long Tuan Duong – Pig’s Offal Rice Porridge

My friend has suggested me to change the review concept a bit. She said taking pictures of whole place would take lots of time, and I had thousands of food pictures and stories behind them to tell, I should simplify and be flexible. This post marked my first try, I hope it would not too bad.

Full set of Pig’s Offal dish

Pig’s offal (“Long tran”) is popular dish among Vietnamese drinkers (rice wine), or people who like to eat shrimp paste sauce (mam tom). It included blood sausage (“doi”), stomach, kidney, tongue, heart, intestine, and liver.

(I borrowed this explanation from Google) These offal items were very well cleaned. The pig intestines’ tough inner skin (which was exposed to bolus and pre-fecal materials) was completely removed. Then, the intestine was exhaustively soaked, cleaned and rinsed. The nephrons of kidneys were skilfully excised, and the kidneys were soaked for several hours and cleaned.

Pig's Offal
Pig’s Offal
Squeeze lemon juice and mix it well with Mam Tom until light bubble comes on the surface
Squeeze lemon juice and mix it well with “mam tom” (shrimp paste sauce) until light bubbles appear on the surface

Perfect pig’s offal should be tender or chewy. Must-have dipping sauce was our renowned “mam tom” (shrimp paste sauce), you must squeeze lemon juice and mix it well with mam tom until light bubble comes on the surface. For spicy eater, add chillies! Despite serious distaste from the majority of Westerners, offal is quite mild and surprisingly palatable actually. The consistency may be a turn off to some, but we embrace its subtle chewiness. Herbal leaves are veggies addition for your palate to completely “enjoy” this dish, don’t forget them 😉

Rice Porridge (Congee)
Rice Porridge (Congee)

To warm up your tummy, a bowl of congee (rice porridge) would be great finishing touch. You could eat the pig’s offal rice porridge independently, however, I had a steamed offal plate before, so I only ordered the plain rice porridge, which was cooked by broth of offal stew. The bowl was topped with “la tia to” – red perilla’s leaves, a.k.a beefsteak plant’s leaves (I laughed a lot when I found this name!!! 😀 ). Perilla’s leaves and trees were widely known as herbal medicine to prevent cold, flu in Asia. Offal was considered cold element in food, I guessed the idea that rice porridge and red perilla’s leaves would balance your inner system (health) after eating them 🙂

Last but not least, where did I eat? There were bunch of good places in Hanoi for this food, but this post was for the one near my apartment in Cau Giay district. Tuan Duong was one of two famous pig’s offal places around Buoi Market’s area. Because of road work, and the new bridge, it moved from 616 Buoi street to current address. I’ve heard the lady owner-main cook said that they lost huge amount of guests, and changed whole new serving staff, but they hope people would gradually know and come back. Currently, it only opens from late morning till late afternoon. Hope they would regain their glorious fame a.k.a old days soon! (Seriously, it was really crowded before moving).

Pig’s offal plate 100k VND
Rice porridge (without pig’s offal): 25k VND

Tuan Duong (Updated new address)
88 Nguyen Dinh Hoan street, Cau Giay district

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